Geek Speak – Upper Peninsula Odyssey, pt. 2: The Island of Bikes

by Daniel

During the last week of July 2011, I went on a road trip with my girlfriend from the middle of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula, to the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula in the Upper Peninsula. 1,300+ miles were driven, hundreds of photos were taken, and dozens of Michigan beers were drank. Hilarity and misadventures ensued.

Day Two – Monday July 25th, 2011

Steph and I woke up (too) early to make the hour drive to St. Ignace to catch our ferry to Mackinac Island (TIP: taking a ferry out of St. Ignace is a quicker trip) on the other side of the Mackinac Bridge.

We were blessed with a clear, sunny day–Mackinac Island is best experienced on such a day. Sure, one can still amuse themselves on the Island during a storm, there are bars after all, but enjoying Nature is the Reason to visit, regardless of what the fudge shop advertisements would have you think.

For those unfamiliar with Mackinac Island, it is small and beautiful. Sort of like an island equivalent of Kristin Chenoweth. And like Ms. Chenoweth’s tiny frame, automobiles are forbidden to drive upon Mackinac Island. Your options of transport are feet, bike, or horse (and perhaps piggyback, if you find a willing party, but good luck).

There is an interesting duality to Mackinac Island.

On one hand, parts of it are, I would say “opulent” but neither of my two readers know the meaning, so I’ll say “the kind of place one needs a few yacht club memberships and at least a III after their name to feel at home.” Case in point, the Grand Hotel, and the lavish “summer cottages” dotting the hillsides away from main street.

But, on the other hand, the vendors of main street will gladly take money from anyone, regardless of their social standing and could care less if they own a yacht, a dingy, or even a rubber duckie (and they will gladly sell you the latter). The Grand Hotel requires a gentleman to wear a jacket after a certain hour, and ladies, as Steph savored reading, were not allowed to wear “slacks.” The Pink Pony, a favorite haunt of mine, not to be confused with the Prancing Pony in Bree, had no problem with my cargo shorts, three-day old beard and Pac-Man t-shirt.

The prices at the Pink Pony, for the Island, are reasonable, and the sandwiches are big. Better still is the Pink Pony Ale, regardless of its origin. Like Arthur and Ford in Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, we needed a couple drinks as a “muscle relaxant.” We had some serious biking ahead of us–and to be perfectly honest, main street Mackinac Island is much easier to handle with a bit of a buzz.

But, I do not drive a few hours North and spend money on a ferry ride to buy fudge and ride bikes–I visit Mackinac Island because it is a lush natural wonder. The bulk of Mackinac Island is a Michigan State Park–which is a blessing. This protects its beauty, which is worthy of a National Park.

Arch Rock, Sugar Loaf, the shoreline, the forest–these are the reason to visit Mackinac Island. Take in the nature around you. Savor the views. Check into Facebook to brag, if you must, but do yourself a favor–sit. Wait. Let it soak in and speak to your soul. Sugar Loaf and Arch Rock are a sight to behold. Study their shape and realize, “Nature did this, all on its own.”

Go in search of a trail in the forest, or on the shore, and walk away from the tour groups and crowds. Share a quiet moment with the Island. Quiet is the keyword here–there are no cars. No sounds of engines, no buzz of a busy city. Just nature.

Gaze out into the horizon of the Great Lake before you. We are so fortunate the State Park on Mackinac keeps the island a place for anyone to visit, and prevents it from becoming a playground for only those whom can afford to own a home there.

Steph and I rented bikes and toured the interior of the Island (no fixie this time). The views were outstanding. The hills make for some interesting biking, to say the least. I wanted to do the “ride around the shore” trip, but we did not have time.

I did spend $14 on two tickets for the Haunted Theater. It is a collection of dark corners and hallways, populated with illuminated displays of monster sculptures. Further in, however, employees growl in yours ears, bang on walls and scare you. The entrance fee was worth every cent when Steph became so terrified, she began screaming and pulled me through the last few hallways. By force. My shoulder was sore for a good hour afterward.

After returning to the mainland, we headed West on US-2 to take in the GarLyn Zoo. Castle Rock had been on our agenda, but we had many miles to put behind us before reaching our motel for the night in Manistique, and was sadly skipped. The GarLyn Zoo, while small and rustic, is cute and has its charms. You can feed Fuzzy the Bear an apple by rolling it through a length of PVC pipe.  A sudden rain storm made our visit a short one, and kept me from snapping any photos.

In Manistique, we dined on cheesy pizza at a local eatery/bar, Teddy’s Pub, which was quiet and relaxed–the exact opposite of main street Mackinac Island. At our hotel, we asked about their hot tub. Our host said she would be glad to open it up for us, and to let us know when we were ready.

“Wow, they have to open it up for us?” Steph whispered. “That’s a first.”
“Look at it this way,” I answered, “at least we know for sure no one else is using it.”

Next: Kitch-iti-kipi, a fish hatchery, and a ghost town–Fayette.

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Daniel J. Hogan is the geek half of Ginger and the Geek. He is also a photoblogger and host of the Magic of Eyri Podcast. He missed having a fixie. Follow him on Twitter, @danieljhogan.